Southern Italy - Calabria

Calabria, the slender foot of Italy's long pull-up boot is a surprisingly lush and culturally interesting point of destination. Calabria's past is one of isolation and since the all encompassing union of Italy's regions into a single country in 1860, much of its population migrated to the more prosperous and populated north. The result is a boon to the traveler - a largely untouched area with a rich history still intact, ancient customs, ethnic enclaves and cultural treasures among a geography that spans from mountains, to the ocean.

Calabria can be divided into two regions, Pollino/Sila to the north and west, and Sera / Tropea which lies further south and along the coast. The Lamezia Airport, which conveniently services both regions, lies directly in the middle.

Many envision the southern most reaches of Italy the way it has been portrayed in the movies: dry, dusty, hot and backwards. Although pockets of this classic vision can be found, most of the region is thickly wooded with Calabrian Pine, rich glens and meadows. Wildlife includes the Appenine Wolf, Golden Eagle, wild cat, badgers and other less protected animals. It is a place with a great deal of national park land. The area makes for excellent climbing and walks through the Pollinian woods. Its pristine air and views provide a wonderful testimony to the region's natural beauty. Walks can easily start from Morano, a medieval town with narrow streets, a Norman castle and a wonderful church worth a long walk through. Here as in many other towns of Calabria, carvings above the doors ward off the dark side and the "evil eye," which the locals strongly believe in.

The Sila region, like that of Pollino is high in elevation. However, unlike the heavily wooded Pollino, Sila is a mix of pasture, olive groves, woods of oak and high elevation pine. Sila is also quite mountainous and rugged at times. Because the region is poor and largely forgotten by the industrial north, picking good roads can be slow going. Part of its charm you might say. The food is largely based on the grains grown and the sheep tended. Cheeses and pressed meats in particular (sopressata...) are common local items found in restaurants.

An interesting town to visit is the 12th century town of San Giovanni in Fiore. It was founded on a bed of black granite, and the unfinished buildings with revolutionary slogans make for good photos to take out and show mother what you did on your trip to Italy. But the town is also known for its brightly colored, hand died textiles and the costumes worn by the town's women. The abbey of Gioacchino da Fiore, circa 1200, makes for an interesting tour as well.

Pizzo

Further south of the Lamezia airport, are several small old towns that kiss the Tyrrhenian Sea. Pizzo, the first town on the road south along the coast is an intimate cliff-top village. Narrow streets and low stucco homes spread forth from the 15th century castle Aragon. The walkways, made of stone and lined by wrought iron rails, are often adorned by flowering pots of geraniums. At the stony marina below, La Modonnina restaurant serves excellent home cooked meals often prepared from the fresh tuna caught just offshore.

Tropea

Thirty minutes further south on the coast is Tropea. Similar to Pizzo, albeit more charming, Tropea has a cliffside presence with handsome tall buildings, stone walkways and the ubiquitous carved doorway masks warding off "the evil eye." The pre-Norman cathedral, with its porticos, frescoes, carvings and impressive art collection make an excellent tour (and substitutes for a museum). Il Normano, located across from the cathedral, dishes up fresh catch and other local Calabrian delights in a piazza overlooking the sea. Beaches in Tropea and southern points (especially the Grotticelle beach which is marked clearly by signs on the road), are said to be the best of Italy. This has been verified by the Minister of Health who has certified the water and coast the cleanest. One thing is certain, they are the least populated.

Ionian Coast

The Ionian coast, the toe that dips into the sea of the very south (you don't get any further south than this) plays host to some hot, dry beaches. Sparsely populated and ancient, Melito di Porto Salvo is a coastal village that lies at the very end of Italy. Just inland from there you can visit Pentedattilo (Five Fingers), a small town that clings to five rock plateaus. The town's name is derived from a rather bloody medieval tale of a Baron's devotion and ultimate betrayal and death...something to do with his fingers and the cliffs. You have to go there to get the full story.

BACK TO TOP