Chianti Classico...or Chiantishire

To anyone that has traveled to this lovely, low mountainous region with its vast wooded areas, vine covered hills and olive groves knows there is more to Chianti than an occasional farmer's Ape with a demi-gionni in the back. This region, besides the wine delivers lovely hill towns and hamlets specaled with enotece and cellars to tour.

The Wine

Chianti wine runs from a basic table wine that can be made from a wide blend of grapes, to a Chianti DOC having a more stringent chemistry, to that of the prized Chianti Classico Gallo Nero, DOCG Riserva - a wine made from a specific grape combination, fermented and bottled under rules arising from law and tradition. Chianti Classico, the top designation of wines (represented by the label's proud black rooster or Gallo Nero), is only granted to those vintners that produce their wines under restricted conditions and are from that area which is designated as "Chianti Classico". This top level wine is similar to Ricasoli developed in the 1700's, blending 70-75% Sangiovese black grapes, 5-10% Canaiolo, also black, 5-10% Malvasia and 5-10% Trebbiano, both white. It should be noted that there have been times in its history that Chianti wine has been fortified with everything from imported grapes to anti-freeze. Now that was a good year.

The principal centers for Chianti Classico are Greve, Radda, Castellino and Gaiole. The lesser known Chianti White - a modest dry wine from the little known Trebianno grape. Who drinks white wine from Chianti?

LA STRADA DEL VINO

• Greve - Major wine distribution center with the rural charm of a market town. A wine fair is held in late September. Explorers Amerigo Vespucci (for which "America" is named) and Giovanni da Verrazzano (for whom the longest suspension bridge in the United States is named) are native sons. Vignamaggio's hilltop villa which is said to have been the country home of da Vinci's model for the Mona Lisa and more recently served as the location for Kenneth Branagh's film "Much Ado About Nothing."
• Castellina in Chianti - "The Heart of Chianti" as it has been called. Festivals and tastings abound in the fall. There are a number of vintners around the area. Castellina in Chianti has Etruscan beginnings and is a mildly fortified hill town with a spectacular view over three valleys to the north, east and west. Etruscan burial vaults are on Monte Calvario at the northern edge of town. A lovely town square, an unusual number of very nice shops and enotecas, trattorias and restaurants make this a pleasant stop.
• Radda in Chianti - Piccolo Museo del Chianti - displays of wine-making techniques and the history of the region's vineyards Badia de Coltibuono, a 12th century monastery which has been converted into a luxury restaurant and wine-cellar. Radda is a lovely small and ancient village with a wonderful cobbled square, church and many an enoteca. We suggest stopping in on "Bar Dante" for a bruschetta, and glass of classico.
• Gaiole in Chianti - Gaiole is considered the capitol of Chianti, but you would never know it from the village, as it is very unassuming, even dull for the tourist. But there interesting things to note in the area: Castello di Meleto resembling a Bordeaux chateau is a fortified wine-grower's castle producing the top-rated Chianti Classico. Also on the grounds is a little 18th century theater. Castello di Brolio is home to the above-named Brolio Riscali Chianti Classico along with its most refined olives and oil.
• Certaldo - On the fringe of the Classico region, is a lovely vibrant town on the road from Pogginbonsi to Siena with an ancient walled city on the ridge and bustling "new city" below. Sundays they have a crafts fair/flea market where cheap trinkets rub elbows with antiques and the ubiquitous t-shirts displaying American Indians - the Italians seem fascinated with American Indians. It is also home of the celebrated 14th century author of "The Decameron," Giovanni Boccaccio. His home is now a museum and research center for students of his writings. The Palazzo Pretorio (magistrate's palace) is complete with dungeons, courtroom and chapel - also visit the garden terrace providing a fine view across the Val d'Elsa to nearby San Gimignano.

San Gimignano.

This tiny town (declared in the 1930's as an historic landmark) is arguably the most recognized (and photographed) hill town in Italy. In terms of walled cities, it has almost achieved world class status. It's silhouette has been referred to as Tuscany's "medieval Manhattan" even though only some 17 of its 70 towers remain. Expect a throng of tourists as this is a major stop. Enter through the Porta San Giovanni and experience the medieval atmosphere as you stroll through narrow cobblestone streets. Sample the local strong, dry white wine - Vernaccia. The shops offer a great variety of handmade crafts and foodstuffs. Places of interest: Piazza della Cisterna - this triangular "square" is named for the 12th century well which existed here. It is paved with herringbone patterned brick and is surrounded by 12th and 14th century mansions. Piazza del Duomo - this square is dominated by the Palazzo del Popolo with the town's highest tower. The view from the top offers a great view of the town. The museum on the second floor contains paintings from the 13th to 15th century Florentine and Sienese schools. The 12th century Romanesque Collegiata church lost its duomo (cathedral) status when the town lost its bishop, but many of its wonderful art treasures remain, including wooden sculptures and Old and New Testament frescoes.

Impruneta

Famous for the fine clay supplied to the Della Robbia terracotta workshops of the Renaissance as well as for today's modern ceramics Autumn fair in mid-October complete with cattle, horses, regional produce and of course plenty of local Chianti.

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