The Italian Riviera

Liguria is a peculiar crescent shape province that follows the coastline from France to Tuscany, with the upper coast known as the Italian Riviera. Its shape is formed by the sea on one side, and the steep mountains on the other. Formerly a haven of Pirates, who would shelter their ships amongst the narrow rocky inlets, it has since become a mecca, not only for the rich and famous, but also for those wishing a unique sort of beach vacation. The deep water ports that once held Pirate vessels, now hold deluxe yachts from all over the world.

Where once the Ligurians (Ligurese) were dependent on the plentiful olive trees for their survival, now the olive oil industry has been replaced by the tourist industry. The moderate ligurian climate is also conducive to growing basil, and it was in this region that the famous Italian Pesto was first created. Many of the hillsides here, like Tuscany, are covered with vineyards, but unlike Tuscany, most of the wine that is made here is kept for local consumption. Two of the better known of the wines are the Rosesso and the Cinque Terre. Ligurian wines are lighter in body and taste than many Italian wines, but don't be deceived by this, because the alcohol content is often higher. The largest town in Liguria, once known as the greatest port in the world, is Genoa.

Genoa

The largest town in Liguria is the port of Genoa. Its supremacy as ruler of the seas had already been established as early as the 11th century. With the onset of the Crusades, the Genoese were able to establish many trading posts along the Mediterranean shores. Because of the constant sparring between the leading families of Genoa, it was decided to elect one Doge for life and seek foreign protection. The decision was made to ally themselves with the French. One of the great sons of Genoa was Andrea Doria; an admiral, legislator and sage leader. Following his death Genoa declined as a port, and at the same time, ties with the French went sour and its harbor was destroyed in 1684 by Louis IV. In 1768, Genoa was forced to surrender Corsica to the French. During its heyday Genoa attracted many artists; among them Rubens, Van Dyck and Puget. Today, Italy's greatest seaport is a city of diversity; great palaces sit side by side with humble dwellings. It still holds a majestic position spread out over the mountains and certainly merits a visit. The Port - To the east is the old port with its pleasure boats, cruise ships and the ferries that go to the other Italian islands or to Africa. To the west is the new industrial section with freighters loading and unloading cargo. It is possible to take boat tours of the harbor. Piazza San Mateo - A charming square in the city center lined with palaces that belonged to the family of Andrea Doria. Via Garibaldi - This street of Palaces is reported to be one of the most beautiful streets in Italy. Palazzo Spinola Gallery - A 16th-18th century mansion displaying artwork from the Italian and Flemish Renaissance.

...and further down the coast...

The towns of this area are Santa Margherita, Rapallo (the biggest dot on the map here), del Sole, Parragi and Portofino. The land is lush with its tropical flora ever blooming. The mountains are stunning with a crown of blue above that ends into a cobalt sea as inviting as the several small plates of antipasti mare mista sitting in front of me. That with a glass or two of Pigato and heaven has been redefined again. Houses are painted in a warm wash that seems to be ever artfully peeling off, exposing the worn burnt stucco underneath from centuries past. There should be a color called Portofino for the ocher these places are painted. Matched by the wooden shutters that are either green or red. Seldom anything else.

Santa Marguerita

Santa Margherita, the heart of the Italian Riviera, has quite a hustle for an old fishing village. The truth is it really isn't a fishing village any more, long ago discovered by the boat people that had drifted down from Monaco, Nice, Cap Ferret today our little fishing village gives you the best of all worlds with a couple of good shipping streets, several restaurants (La Stalla in the hills above and Oca are the best, but the Trattoria da Michele prepares a decent meal), a pebbly public beach, real shops, train station (from Milan, Genova and to La Spezia), buses that take you between Portofino and Rapallo. That's all you need around here. The water taxis are more fun. Santa Margherita is a place that swells on the weekend with kids from Milan, and returns to the adults on Sunday night for the rest of the week.

Portofino

Portofino it could be said has more wealth per capita, per square meter than any other place in Italy. It is one of the most sought after places for owning and vacationing. The place reads like a Who's Who of Italian power with the wealthiest Italians coming here (and Capri or Sardinia) and many by boat where a docking space is a little less than than the apartments, which start at about $12,000 per square meter when available for purchase. You should see Berlasconi's place - a villa of five floors right on the water. Looks like a fortress too. It is a place to see and be seen, but in jeans and a tee shirt. Portofino is a place to come for the views (if you are renting), exclusive nature of the place (if you are renting), restaurants at night and views from the promitory above. It is a picturesque place, with more photos are taken of Portofino than any other town in this area. Nearest swimming is at the Parragi beach located in the tiny hamlet of Parragi, just before arriving in Portofino. It has a beach, umbrellas, towels I think too. Cost is about $50 per person per day. No unusual in this part of the world. If you stay in Portofino and want to swim for free, head to Santa Margherita.