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The Region of Rome: Lazio
It is often said that Italy is made up of two countries, the north and south, with Lazio - the small region just south of Tuscany - providing the line of demarcation between the two. Existing well outside of the popular tourist destinations of the north, northern Lazio retains the characteristics of Tuscany and Umbria; greenery, rolling hills, scattered walled cities and some wonderful lakes to refresh the soul. Hilly southern Lazio has more in common with the south: sparsely populated and a more desolate landscape. Here we will focus on northern Lazio to provide touring ideas in the vicinity of our villas. The northern region of Lazio has much to offer including weather that is a little warmer during the "shoulder" seasons of early spring and late fall. But even the winter can produce balmy days. (You may have to consider bringing shorts year round.) With several large volcanic lakes throughout the northern region, a number of small ancient towns and quite a few Etruscan sites to explore, there is a great deal to do in northern Lazio besides spending your days and nights in Rome. Don't get us wrong. Rome is a great place to spend time. But there are volumes written on that subject already. Etrusca There were 12 cities in the famed Etruscan Federation and a handful of impressive sites are located in this small region, including one of the top three federation cities. The site is Cerveteri. Here the necropolis is spread out over a wide region. Although many of the original sculptures have been placed in museums to the north and south, what remains is an eerie city for the dead - houses, streets and burial tombs spread out for the dead to enjoy. Check out some of the tombs that remain, notably Tomba Bella, Tomba dei Letti Funebri and the Tomba dei Capitalli Maps. You can find more necropoli in the other Etruscan sites of the region: Tarquinia near the coast and border of Tuscany, Vulci just north of Montalto which includes Villanova, Ponte d'Abbadia and Veio, the largest of the Twelve Etruscan cities (although unimpressive today) as well as a smattering of remains throughout the lake rims. Lagos! Lagos! Lagos! What could be a better way to spend a summer day in Lazio than lazing around a cool lake that sits in the basin of a volcanic rim? Fortunately there are many in this region. Lago di Vico to the north, Lago Bracciano further south and Lago di Bolsena being the most impressive. Lago di Bolsena and surrounding villages - Montefiascone, Bolsena, Capodimonte and tiny San Antonio provide charming places to visit as well as restaurants that specialize in fresh lake catch (Dante once praised the eel of Lago di Bolsena). Try out the local dishes and order a bottle of the local wine Est!Est!Est!, better known for its curious name than for its taste. Montefiascone is on the southern edge of Lago di Bolsena. Sitting high above, perched on the volcanic rock of the lake rim, Montefiascone is also known as the Capital Hill of the Etruscan Federation. As it is the big dot (on the map) in these parts and on a popular lake, it is a pleasant surprise to find it in good shape, interesting to explore, the lake clean and refreshing, and the surrounding land green and fertile. Il Giardino die Tarocchi (The Tarot Garden) is a garden of odd sculptures that please both children and adults. It makes for a wonderful day trip from Chiarone. We recommend you see this Italian cult classic before it goes mainstream. You can say "I saw it when..." Each town has its art treasures and wonderful restaurants abound in the countryside. The region is a showcase of beaches, forested hills, wild boar, truffles, mushrooms, persimmons. Lots of good food to eat, wine to drink. Civita Castellana Civita Castellana is a town in the north of Lazio where architectural ornamentation can be found throughout the streets and piazzas, with particularly impressive doors on the duomo. It may not be the most impressive town in Italy, but its Etruscan history and duomo make it an interesting stop. The local sangiovese grape produces a wine similar to the coveted Brunello. There's also an upscale restaurant worth checking out.
L'Altra Bottilglia
In the center of town, a small house turns out top notch cuisine in a most unexpected and unassuming environment. Small antipasti are provided free. One recommended primi piatti is a tagliolini pasta with a pureed red Sutri bean flavored sauce with pork and pecorino. Choose the duck or lamb as a secondi piatti, followed by assorted cheeses. The local sangiovese wine is the perfect accompaniment. Dessert should be their daily fruit torte. Viterbo Viterbo is the region's historic center. A walled city off the beaten path, once favored by Popes as a residence and loathed by Rome. A handful of very impressive palaces and churches rose from its wealth, which dates back to the 13th century. Very nice piazzas, streets with shops, a museum with Etruscan artifacts and a number of restaurants make Viterbo a stylish day trip. You may want to try this restaurant out.
Il Richiastro
A delightful (and surprisingly affordable) meal of traditional Latian cuisine in a 13th century building awaits you. Try the lumbrichi, a local pasta with tomato sauce, pecorino and fennel pollen (if you have allergies to pollen - stay away from this one). A recommended secondi piatti is an unnamed sliced ham dish in a wine sauce. Try the local grappa as an after-dinner digestivo.
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