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Rome
History In A Paragraph
Out of legends the Roman historians have created a self-glorifying narrative, complete with exact dates for the foundation of the city. According to them Rome was founded on April 21, 753 BC a day still celebrated as the city's "official birthday."
A Delicate Intimacy Among Lunatic Drivers Today Rome is one of the most beguiling and astonishing places in the world. Two thousand and more years of history, much of it at the center of the Western stage have endowed the city with a wealth of magnificent piazzas, ancient monuments, churches and palaces. Rome is a most impressive place. One can't help but walk the streets and stumble into amazing works of art, important antiquity or a litter of mopeds. The evidence of past glory is all around and it is overwhelming. But, what has modern Rome to offer, some ask? On the brink of the year 2000 Rome suffers from what some believe is a strange inferiority complex toward its own glorious past. Could this explain why they drive like lunatics, even when there is nothing to do when they arrive? Or why they are constantly chasing the latest fad, even when it is a repeat of last year's? And yet, one can not help but notice that there is a delicate intimacy in the relationship between the Romans and the past: children kick footballs in front of the Pantheon; women trot through the cobble-stoned Piazza Navona in their towering heels; drivers barrel down narrow streets trying to squeeze into the tiniest of parking spots. Rome is an interesting and clumsy dance. You Want to Know What To Do? Nothing! Rome is often called an open-air museum, yet its objects are not pickled in nostalgia. Rather, they form the backdrop to the chaotic exuberance of everyday life. It may even be that after visiting San Pietro and Il Vaticano, exploring the ruins of Il Palatino, climbing the steps of the Piazza di Spagna, admiring the Colosseum, you will sit down at the café and watch fast-pace nuns consume even faster melting ice cream, listen to the neighbors scream out the latest news from their kitchen windows, or simply gaze at the fountains along with the pigeons, Romans and other tourists that have stayed longer then they should.
Ultimately, to explore Rome requires no travel guide. Any Roman will tell you that the best thing to do in Rome is simply "nothing at all." Do not be fooled, however. Doing nothing alla Romana is not a matter of laziness: it is a demanding and richly rewarding activity which the Romans have raised to the level of an art form.
Relax and keep a sense of humor and Rome will reward you as no other city can by making you feel as her visitors have for 2000+ years: that you are the first one to really appreciate her, the only one worthy of her eternal charm. A few handy things to remember when in Rome:About toilet paper - It has to be said by someone, it may as well be us. Ladies, carry tissues. The bathrooms in Rome are less than accommodating. Toilet paper is scarce if found at all in public bathrooms. Doesn't matter how nice the place looks, the bathroom is last on the list when it comes to maintenance, and this shows with aplomb. As to drying your hands after washing (Towels? You must be joking!) - this we will have to leave to your creative solution. Ordering coffee - Romans have had enough of Americans ordering cappuccino at lunch time. In Italian society this is considered a social guffaw (cappucino is for breakfast only). And as we all have some boiling point, the Romans have chosen ordering cappuccino at lunch time as theirs. It's not the traffic, the pollution or foreigners asking directions. It's ordering cappuccino at lunch time. Do this instead- order a cafe (black espresso) or a machiato (black espresso with a little milk added), but to make a good impression, skip the afternoon cappuccini. Freelance Cabs - As soon as you step out of the Stazione Termini, the gypsy cabs (not true gypsies) ascend on you saying "taxi?" There is a taxi stand at Termini - look for the long line which moves quickly and is worth the wait. Taxi's cost 10,000 - 20,000 lire and are metered. Gypsies want 50,000 - 80,000 lire for the same trip. If you need a taxi, call 065 551. When in Rome, do as the Romans: rent a scooter - You haven't lived until you have rented a scooter and buzzed around the city, nearly killing yourself weaving in and out of all the cars. Ostia Antica: Yes there is much to do in Rome. But we have a day trip that cannot be missed. Pack up your family, take a picnic lunch and go to Ostia Antica, just 10 km west of the city. This "seaport" was first inhabited in 600 BC (at that time it was on the sea, hence the port), and has been an archaeologic excavation site from around 1400! A sprawling city of Roman ruins on a scale that is shocking. This is no common dig with a few columns and a crumbled amphitheater. It's a complex town of antiquity with streets, underground walkways, necropoli, loads of baths with mosaic floors, a perfect amphitheater, apartment buildings(!) and hundreds of homes and shops. The city goes for nearly a mile. Much of which is surprisingly well preserved. A MUST when visiting Rome. Take the subway to the "Piramida" stop (1500 lire per ticket) then buy another 1500 lire biletta (ticket) and take the M at this station in the direction of Lido. The stop outside of Rome is Ostia Antica. You can walk from there. Enjoy your picnic. Trastevere Literally "across the Tevere river" is where the rich during the past 1000 years sent the poor folk to live. Trastevere was perhaps the western world's first welfare initiative. The rich folk on "the good side of the river" built low cost housing with narrow streets and unadorned facades essentially in an effort to relocate less fortunate to another area. Sound familiar? Now of course Trastevere is one of the most coveted places to stay, have an apartment and dine in all of Rome. Wonderful little cafes, bars, art galleries and osterias are peppered through out its cobblestone streets. The true antiquity of ancient Rome may be around Palatine Hill with its many piazzas and fountains, but you always want to come home to Trastevere where a hip, arty ambiance mingles with a village-like setting. Lowbuildings with large wooden shutters, salmon and ochre colors between cobblestone and terra cotta roof. Aged sophistication. Flawed and intimate. For a decent restaurant one need only look for a sidewalk umbrella and chairs. Our easy recommendation is Ristorante "dell'Arco di Catisto" at 45 via Arco di S. Catisto just off of Incrociare. Try the Veal in a Bag (Lombata al Cartoccio), Fettucini al Porcini during season and Spinaci. Best Pizza In Rome, Is In Trastevere No surprise here as the area is known for its trattorias and boutiques. But the inside tip on pizza is Forno La Renella. This funky little bread and pizza bakery located on Viccolo del Moro has an ambiance more in common with an artist hangout than a pizza shop. Three young women in baker's whites stand behind the glass counter where several different styled pizza's, from the classic red sauce Marguerite to the sauceless bianco, are artistically arranged for your viewing. You tell them what you want; how many kilos (1 kilo = 2.25 lbs, hence ask in fractions), and they hack out a square piece using clumsy, oversized kitchen scissors. The square slices may look a little ragged around the edges, but it sure tastes good. Good Restaurants
There's probably loads of good restaurants in Rome...scratch that...there ARE loads of good restaurants in Rome. We just don't know them. Not our area of expertise. Maybe you know some you would like to tell us about? Thanks in advance. But here's one we came across worthy of mention - and a good mention. Very popular, great location and reservations strongle recommended:
Best eats in the Piazza Navona area can be found at the trendy La Vinera 15 Campo de Fiore telephone 06 6880 3268 Giolitti is the best gelato in town. This is perhaps the most important address in all of Rome! 40 via Uffici del Vicaro
When in Rome do as the Romans and get around by Vespa. But be careful!
An Audience With The Pope Yes, such things still exist in this world...at least with the current Pontif. If you would like to have an audience with His Holiness (along with 7000 other people at the Hall of Papal Audiences), send a letter to:
Uffici Refeturra della Casa Pontificia
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