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The Sabine, Sabina Outside of Rome
In the mountain range just northeast of Rome are the hills that lead to Monti Sabina. Sabina provides an undiscovered area often overlooked by tourists. Even Romans look past Sabina when going on holiday. And they are missing out on a region that is truly beautiful, with wooded hills, many olive groves and a scattering of vineyards. Best yet there are no tourist buses, tourist menus or crowds of people peering into town windows. Nor are there post card carousels outside the shops and tabbachi stands. Here it is more common to find locals enjoying a meal or tending their fields and the roads can be clogged by a flock of sheep moving to new grazing sites. Sabina is by definition "Italy Undiscovered." This too is reflected in the attitudes of the Sabine people. Genuine smiles, friendly eyes and open doors are the norm here for travelers. They just donít see that many! The modern history of Sabina begins in 500 - 100 BC when it was discovered by the Romans in their quest to replenish their stock of women -- or so it is said. The women of the Sabini tribe in the hills northeast of the Roman city were said to be beautiful, strong and highly prized. The conquest of the area produced Roman towns, forums and country villas surrounded by working farms. Today the ruins of Roman rule remain in a number of interesting ways throughout the region: ongoing digs are uncovering forums and villas, abbeys are built on top of Roman churches that are partially submerged in the earth and small pieces of Roman history have been absorbed into the homes and farms scattered throughout the region. An ancient column serves as a corner stone for a more modern building, a marble arch is found over a farmhouse door, bricks used in medieval times were taken from Roman homes and antique olive urns are scattered everywhere. It is a very interesting area that prizes itself on producing some of Italy's finest olive oil: it is one of three small regions that are actually designated as DOC for olive oil production. Mosquito Free? We are told that Sabina is mosquito free. Can this be true? Is that not a reason to go? Is there a Saint of Mosquito Free Holidays? So many questions shroud this revelation. Asking around we learned that indeed Sabina is effectively free of these pests. And if there are any mosquitoes in the dead of summer, they are feeble at best. Touring the area consists of driving among the many fortified hill towns in the region, discovering the Roman ruins and digs and visiting the Etruscan ruins that are scattered north of Rome and into Umbria, 20 km away. Perhaps the most popular attraction is Rome itself, a quick drive from the area (Sabina is 20 km from the first exit on the AutoStrada north of Rome and there are train stations nearby to zip you in). There are no museums here (hit Rome for that), but lots of fresh air and a countryside made for touring: Abbey di Farfa & Castelnuovo di Farfa An abbey and village that is definitely worth a stop. The abbey was powerful in its day (1200's) and has a collection of religious artifacts. The town is also known for its hand woven cloths that make for a very unusual and beautiful gift to bring home to loved ones. There are some skin creams made from herbs that have brought visitors back to the region in order to stock up. In close proximity is Castelnuovo di Farfa with its palazzi and Italian gardens, along with the town hall and olive oil museum celebrating the areas dominance in oil. Castelnuovo di Farfa has its own Palio on August 1 and 23rd, Songs of Friendship on October 10 and 11 and the Sagra della Bruschetta on October 17. Cantalupo A medieval hill town that is enormously charming with summer music festivals that are performed in its small central piazza. The town has perhaps a population of 1500 - 2000 and the intimacy is not lost on its guests. Nearby is a museum and the Palazzo Camuccini where blacksmithing continues to this day. It is wonderful town with beautifully stone layed streets and picoli. Casperia Here is another ancient stone village from the middle ages, the one time possession of the Abbey of Farfa. This place has changed little since the 13th century. A historic relic you might say. In this town they love to eat. Enter into evidence two festivals: in July is the Sagra di Stringozzi (a pasta in the region) and in August the Sagra di Polenta. Buon appetito!
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