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Touring Sicily
On this island, the largest in the Mediterranean, Sicilians have, for the last 1500 years, endured one conquering group after another: Phoenician, Etruscan, Byzantine, Arab, Norman, British, Roman, Greek, Spanish and Mafia all have had their shot at governing this place. Now of course it is Italy's turn, and with 54+ governments in 30 years, they have their hands full just governing themselves! That has been left behind by the waves of rulers is a landscape rich in historic architecture, a unique language and some fabulous food based on the sea, the noodle, couscous not withstanding and the island's produce (about everything). Sicily is perhaps Italy's most unique "region." Sicilians do not think of themselves as a region of Italy actually...they are Sicilian. And, it's true. Anyone that has been to Sicily could only confer: here is a unique country with its own history, language and cuisine. The three elements that mark a culture. For those that think that Sicily is a dry and dusty southern land, you would be pleasantly surprised. Parts of it have reminded us of Ireland. Here you find forests, sand, lush green hills and valleys and rocky mountains. Scopello Scopello, located just off the north coast of Sicily and west of Palermo is a quaint southern Italian village. The roots of this sleepy village are as a hunting estate for a medieval Baron. For a small village there are two small piazzas - one is found as you arrive in the town and come across a square of stone with a massive ancient water trough for the horses now serving as the village cistern of fresh water - there is the ubiquitous tabachi, bakery and a few other essential shops. Then there is a stone wall and gaping portico that leads to this second stone square with a massive eucalyptus shade tree in the center, small shops and cafes that now occupy old horse stables, and a large villa that was once the lodge of old. In the summer shade are a handful of sleeping village dogs and people saving their strength for cooler days. A car occasionally stops in the square for some provisions and fresh water from the village spring. You would think this is the big attraction in the town - but it's not. It is Ristorante La Terrazza found further in the town towards the sea where views of the cobalt blue are uninterrupted, but for the pitchers of Glicine white wine that accompanies the fresh fish. The food is decent - the views superlative. There is an ATM (Bankomat) in the lodge square. This is an area that is known for its natural resources, antiquity, wonderful white beaches and good wine. Our tip is to spend your sea and sun days at the nearby Tonnaro: a medieval Tuna processing village that was abandoned from the 1600's and yet still fully intact. The fisherman of old would live and work here during the fishing season. Today it is a marvelous relic with excellent beaches. Also at the end of the coastal road as you head west and stay north on the sea is the natural park reserve of Zingaro. This is the end of the road. Park your car, grab a picnic and some tanning lotion and take the path's that cut in and out of the sea and hills. One of the beaches here is one kilometer long and all white sand.
Etna, We're Glad We Met Ya Mount Etna is a must...A MUST to be included in your itinerary of Sicily. It's alive! It's dangerous! It's unpredictable! To be standing on cinder rock steaming beneath your feet, where you can make out the glow of red hot lava just under the surface - this is an experience you can't miss. The cooled, crusty lava bed that stretches in all directions crinkles like masonry blocks rubbed together as you pick your way over the barren black landscape. Getting there is not as simple as it would seem. The mountain swells before you, your destination sure - but surprisingly there are few maps or signs that put you on the right road to its base. We suggest you take the Via Etna road and you can't go wrong. Pick your way through the streets and always head upward. The most direct being the Tanziale road around Catania. Once you arrive you have the choice of three: walk all the way up (free), take the cable car to the first base (around 20,000 lire) or choose the works which includes the cable car and a mountain bus that takes you with an Italian guide to as far as you can go (65,000 lire and our choice as time is precious in this business). The most incredible part of Etna is that you can walk about anyplace you want to go. God bless the Italians - Etna provides Europe with a litigious free view of an active volcano (you can not get to the top of Etna, it's too dangerous) The guides will take you right to the edge of an open lava pit and say - okay that's it. Enjoy! You could take a dive in as far as they are concerned. No ropes with bright yellow "DANGER" signs, no chains restraining you from a quick and semi-painless death. In the U.S. there would be warning signs, security guards, and lawyers watching your every move. But, thank God for Italy. Do what you want! Jump in the pit! Our suggestion: take a sweater and jacket - it's quite cold up there. Wear thick sole shoes for climbing rocks. Tennis shoes will melt. Aeolian Islands A sparkling cluster of islands born from volcan activity just off the northeast point of Sicily provide an interesting dimension to touring this region of unified Italy. "Aeolian Islands..."the very name conjures ../images of Greek Gods, mythical events that shaped not only the islands but the very laws of the mortal world. Each of the seven islands (Alicudi, Filicudi, Salina, Lipari, Vulcano, Panarea and Stromboli) have their own unique personality: Vulcano is self explanatory and a destination for those seeking the therapeutic sulfur baths (if you take the smell), Alicudi and Filicudi are remote and quiet, Stromboli is chic. All the islands are accessible via boat or hydrofoil at Milazzo. Da Heartland of Mafia Da heartland of Mafia country can be found south of Palermo on the road through Monti Sicani to Agrigento. It was in this quiet bucolic countryside often dotted with shepherds and sheep that Lucky Luciano found his financial misfortune after being banished to Sicily by the U.S. in the 1940's (We're not sure what happened to him in the end. But we don't care - 'cause he was a dirty stinkin' rat!). Traveling on Superstrada 121 and 189 south from the north coast an adventurous sole can make stops in small towns that read like a "Who's Who" of Hollywood heavies - villages of Prizzi (check out the cement boots factory at the Lago di Prizzi - just kidding!), Corleone, Friddi, Rizzo and Guiliana (no relation to the iron-fisted boss mayor of New York). Please, stop in for lunch at any of these friendly places - just sit in the corner with your back to the wall and you should be okay. You could also take a picnic along the cliffs of Bosco della Ficuzza as it bends with respect around Corleone. This is a scenic place known as a particularly good location for pushing rivals off the cliffs. Excellent for pictures too. Beaches If an island has anything to offer, it better be a beach. And this large island of volcanic rock has a surprising number of sand beaches on the Taormina side. The Palermo side is generally rocky. But the coastline of Sicily is quite impressive and surprisingly beautiful. Combine that with the food, wine and friendly ambience...well...you're on vacation in the Tyrrhenian Sea. May we suggest? Cefalu east of Palermo by about 20 km, Zingaro Nature Reserve west of Palermo by about the same. On the southern coast, points south of Messina, Taormina offers both a world class beach resort (Mazzaro Lido), Greek ruins and views to die for. In this town your car will be a hindrance. Digs & Cooking Wine Off of the far western tip at lands end is the famous (by name only) town of Marsala. Marsala was once a Greek and Arab fortified trading town until the English became so captivated by the calming effect the area's sweet wine had on its sailors. Today the namesake of this old place has been reduced to a bottled occasionally used by American gourmets when spicing up their pork medallions. How the mighty have fallen to the mighty big. "So what are we doing here when we could be touring da Mafia land," you ask? Well... its kind of a cool little town with some Roman ruins and Phoenecian artifacts can be found at the museum. The small island just off shore, Motya, provides a small dig as well. The fact is that there is interesting stuff all over Sicily and a couple of weeks can be spent just driving and walking around looking.
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