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About Italy..or..Italy FAQs
Most folks, including us, head into the interior of Tuscany when seeking great touring. No surprise there when the icons such as Florence, San Gimignano, Siena...etc., beckon us to their stone and fresco facades. But wait a minute! There's touring on the coast as well! Actually it is somewhat surprising how many people ask us about places on the sea. The towns of the area, with Grosseto as its commune hub, provide a mixture of antiquity and beach resort. There are many Europeans (and a handful of savvy Americans) that stay exclusively on the coast when visiting Tuscany. A word of warning for those considering their first trip to Tuscany and making the coastal region their base: it is a full 1 - 2 hours from many popular sites (Siena, hill towns, Montalcino etc) of Tuscany making day trips rather lengthy. The coastal region of Tuscany stretches from the northern area dominated by Pisa to the southern area of Grosseto and the historic Isola d'Elba where Napoleon Bonaparte was exiled until his last stand at Waterloo. A few spots to consider touring when staying in this area are as follows. They seek those beaches and the shopping one traditionally associates with a summer vacation. No problem. So here's a little on the area for you to peruse. Montalcino Thirty minutes south of Siena you come into the land of the Brunello - perhaps Italy's most prized wines. The domain Brunello di Montalcino in particular is highly sought and purchased for no small amount here in the states. But while in Italy, you can drink it cheap. And, perhaps the best place to do so is in the town's many enotecas (wine bars) that provide a glass of wine and serve sandwiches. Montalcino is a very picturesque fortified town. More manageable than Siena, with its own Contralto competitions, wonderful restaurants and shopping. Just walking around is a great thing to do here, but be there at sunset for the colors that cast over the farmland and hills to the west. The view is impressive. So is the walk about at that time of day. Coolest enoteca - located in a tower of the ancient fortress on one corner of Montalcino's walls. Montepulciano In competition with Montalcino, Montepulciano is larger and perhaps less impressive for some. But, unlike many other famed walled cities, this one gives a feeling of living history - it streets are filled with the villagers and less with tourists. The lack of traffic is one of the charming aspects of Montepulciano. That plus its impressive antiquity makes this a must see for the relative few. But Montepulciano also boasts a wine of note: Vino Nobile. A slightly meaty blend that challenges its not too distant neighbor. Forte dei Marmi e Versilia This is one of Tuscany's hot spots. The rich and famous, and many other Italians head west to Versilia, the area of Forte dei Marmi, Viareggio, Marina this Marina that..really it's a long stretch of sandy beaches, cabanas, restaurants and shops from North of Pisa to Liguria. And in high season Italian time (August) it is cheek to jowl. But as a destination it's not bad. Even well located for a family that wants to mix beach and Tuscany. Relatively close by is Cinque Terre to the north, Carrara, Lucca, Pisa and more. Loads of interesting places down south as well. Forte dei Marmi has a wonderful centro storico with an old piazza about as pristine as they get, and surrounded by Gucci, Versace and Uomo style places. Yep, upscale kind of shopping. Here an espresso will set you back 2 euro or more, a plate of pasta will be more fer sure. It's expensive but nice. There are loads of places to eat, buy postcards and tanning butter. One of the most wonderful things to do is rent a bike and get around that way on the many bike only paths that connect the residential to the commercial strips. Along this area, Forte dei Marmi and Viareggio the waters are murky but clean, and a perfect temperature for swimming. And the beaches clean and manicured, unlike many of its American counterparts. In the end the kids will love it. You will lay on the sand and read a book - and watch people of course. Viareggio, the most popular of the beaches is also known for its fabulous Liberte period houses along the board walk and carnival, which easily rivals Venice although more obscure. If you are in Tuscany January 22 - February 7, each Sunday Viarreggio is the place to be for the crazy floats that parade down the bboard walk and other places. Any other time it is Hangar Carnevale located on via San Marco Polo to see the floats in storage, much like the Mardi Gras warehouses in New Orleans, which we also suggest. Grossetto In the heart of Tuscany's Maremma is the hub of culture and commerce of the area. Similar to the powerful towns to the north (Pisa, Florence, Siena), Grosseto built it's wealth and fortified against it's neighbors and distant dominations. The wealth of this region relies on the sea and specifically the rich mineral deposits excavated from the Isola d'Elba - ore and other prized malleable tins. Grosseto is not the most impressive of Tuscan towns. Next to its fragments of fortified walls and ancient centro (built by the Medici after Florentine conquest), the rest of the town is 20th century modern. Grosseto was heavily bombarded during World War II. Instead Grosseto plays host to an interesting region that is within easy reach of the coast and a number of small hamlets and fortresses. In particular the Nature Preserve of Maremma is an interesting visit. Monte Argentario This fist-shaped peninsula (which resembles an island) south of Grosseto is connected by three causeways. The town of Orbetello lies on the central causeway. The peninsula has two main towns - Porto Ercole with its charming, perennially fashionable sailing harbor inhabited by casually elegant yachtsmen and Porto Santo Stefano with its great fish market. This is the place to embark on island cruises. Monte Argentario - the Strada Panoramica, 24 miles around the promontory, is one of the most picturesque drives imaginable. You will pass through oak and pine woods, drive along sheer cliffs dotted with watch towers, stop and enjoy the spectacular view at an old fortress and stop at one of the fine secluded beaches. Casa Grande, offers a perfect place to watch the sun set. A short ferry ride to the islands Giglio and Giannutri - further west demonstrate wild beauty, vineyards, orange trees and a hilltop village offering a magnificent view back to Argentario. There is also an ongoing excavation of a Roman villa. Ansedonia - a chic resort on mainland formerly an old Roman port-town also with on going excavations. Castiglione della Pescaia An easy reach from Grosseto and settled at the foot of the higher Tuscan peaks of Poggio Ballone, and Monte d'Alma to the north provide an impressive backdrop. Once a small fishing village this has become a popular summer resort for Italians. Clean beaches and clean waters bring in sun worshipers especially during the Italian high season of holiday: August. During the off seasons - autumn and spring - Castiglione takes on a charm rarely seen during the summer. Gulf of Follonica The gulf plays hosts to long rows of summer umbrellas, beach towels and throngs of sun seekers when the weather is warm. The Gulf of Follonica curves in a crescent from Piombino, (the port by which ferries depart to the many islands off shore), to the southern port of Punta Alba. Since the time of Medici domination, industry in the area has revolved around mining for metals off the coast. Punta Ala Isola d'Elba A 30 minute car ferry from Piombino brings you to this island of rich history. Here the Etruscans dug for ore, silver and other metals as their ability to fashion jewelry grew. Under the Tuscan Medici rule jeweler making became a wealthy industry and resulted in its fortification. Pirates have run amuck here as well as shipwrecks, Napoleon Bonaparte was exiled to Elba, after his defeats and a war-weary France tired of his need of conquest. Water sportsmen have discovered the year round mild and dry weather. Clearly the island of Elba provides much to do.
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